MY
WINTER 2001 TRIP TO SLOVAKIA
I stayed up
almost all night prior to my departure. I had to finish my last master video
“SLOVAK CHRISTMAS 2001” and start making copies right away. I packed and
repacked my two huge Samsonite Oyster Shell suitcases several times and
finally went to bed around 4:00 AM. Got up really early. Soon I had my first
phone call. It was my friend Ondro Mihal from Toronto wishing me safe journey.
He also mentioned that during his recent trip from Thunder Bay one of his
films in the carry on luggage as damaged by the x-ray machine. The films in
his suitcase were fine. So perhaps it would be a good idea to pack all the
films in the check in luggage in the future. This conversation made me also
realize that none of my films are packed and they are still in the fridge. Boy
I am lucky. The price of films in Slovakia is much higher then in North
America.
Today it is
windy, the clouds are gone, and it is cold also. We got to the airport around
10 AM. Boy, lots of room everywhere. I put my suitcases on the dolly; the
automatic door opened and wow very few people at the check in counters. No
line-ups, at all. I have never ever seen Vancouver airport with so few
travelers and I fly through this airport 4 to 5 times per year. When you fly
stand by, you usually don’t know if you get on the flight you are listed on
just few minutes prior to departure. You check your luggage and receive a gate
pass. You wait at the gate until everybody boards the plane and if there is a
room you go on, if there isn’t, you are transferred to the next available
flight and you wait again. If the flights are busy you cross the airport from
gate to gate several times before you are lucky to get on. This wasn’t the
case today, as the flights aren’t full. I got seat assigned at the check in
to Calgary, Alberta, as that is where my flight to Frankfurt will originate.
The security
check of the carry on luggage was more detailed as ever before but still not
as thorough as I was accustomed for years at German airports, where I
sometimes had to even take picture with my camera, just so they can see that
it works.
Got to my gate C
32, bought local paper, only to discover later on that there is a huge shelf
with all kinds of morning newspapers at the gate for free. As I read, I
noticed sudden change in light. Later on I learned that there is a power
failure on the island where the airport is located. So now it is a waiting
game. I have 5 hours to get to Calgary and to catch the plane to Frankfurt. I
sure hope that I will make it. Even here at the departure terminal you can
notice the lack of travelers. This place is usually buzzing with people. Not
the case lately. There are two reasons: one, the people are afraid to fly and
the second is the job security. People are putting their travel plans on hold
and are sitting tight.
Power just came
back on after an hour and we will depart shortly. By the time I got off the
plane in Calgary, my suitcases were on the carousel already. That usually
doesn’t happen very often. I check in again and got seat assigned right
away, as there are plenty of unsold seats to Frankfurt. I am flying.
The weather in
Calgary at the present is cloudy, windy, and cold, minus 2 Celsius. There were
some light snow flurries just prior to departure enough for the Captain to get
the plane de-iced.
We left on time
and the Captain announced that it would take us 9 hours and 24 minutes at
39000 feet to reach Frankfurt. As soon as we were in the air, as usual, I fell
a sleep only to be wakening up for drinks and food. I even slept through the
duty free sale and when I realized I missed buying my favorite liquor Grand
Marnier, just prior to landing I wasn’t able to make the purchase anymore.
Well I can do without it, no problem.
And now few
words about car rental. I used to book through Holiday House, however they
don’t have the deals they used to have, anymore. Also recently some
mysterious charges appeared on my credit card account and I am trying to clear
it up for the whole year with no luck so far. The new company I book through
is Auto Europe from Portland and of course through my favorite travel agent
SANDY at PACIFIC SUN HOLIDAYS (604-688-0444). I mentioned before that many
years ago I switched from my former friend and local Vancouver Slovak Travel
Agent who used to take me for a ride on every ticket. In Germany they deal
with AVIS car rental. You have to declare at the time of booking that you
traveling to Eastern European Countries and you have to specify which ones.
The price of course goes up. Germany has 16% VAT (value added tax) on your
rental, highway fee of about 1.34 DM per day and if you rent at the airport
there is additional 12% airport pick up surcharge. Just the airport pick up
surcharge on my five week rental added over CAD$100.00 to the bill. I left my
booking until the last minute and then I wasn’t able to find a price for a
taxi ride from Frankfurt airport to the nearest Avis location on the Internet,
so I ended up renting at the airport. Here I found that the taxi would be
about DM 20.00. So this is my last rental at any airport.
I got OPEL ASTRA
DIESEL again as ordered. It has 21000 Km and few scratches on driver’s side
doors and one on the hood, which I immediately reported and it was noted on
the rental contract. I don’t know if I mentioned before that it is very
important to check if you have all the documents for the car prior to leaving
the rental location. In Europe all cars must have a technical papers on which
the license plate is noted and for international travel you must have a Green
card as a proof of insurance. Without these documents, should you be checked
at any border, you won’t be able to enter or leave the country. This may get
really difficult and the prevention takes only few minutes. Soon I was sailing
the German Autobahn again. Funny in British Columbia I wouldn’t even dream
of going past 110 Km per hour, which is already 10 Km past the allowable speed
limit. In Germany there is no speed limit, just suggestion and restrictions on
speed in certain sections of the highway. When I go 150-160 Km per hour, I am
always passed by faster cars doing 200 and over that. It is 810 Km from
Frankfurt to Bratislava and it took me less than 7 hours to reach the Slovak
border. The average speed was lower due to many sections of the Autobahn being
repaired and speed in these sections is 60 to 80 Km per hour.
I went to bed
about midnight and woke up after 3 AM as I have a jet lag and can’t sleep,
so I decided to put these notes written on the paper in the computer. In few
hours I will go get my recharge card for my cell phone, buy prepaid telephone
card; go to the post office to mail the newsletter and at 10 AM I am shooting
a hockey movie for my friends just for fun. From the daily papers I have
learned that Ministry of Culture is closing the House for foreign Slovaks and
will make it just an office for foreign Slovaks under the Ministry of Culture,
thus reducing the staff and office space drastically. I welcome this new move
as I felt for a long time that this House was totally useless and the
employees there really didn’t do anything. For instance very few knew any
foreign language. I know that the person under whose jurisdiction was North
America didn’t speak any English. This was few years ago. In summer I
learned from a client of mine that he went there trying to get some
information on the statute of foreign Slovak and the employees there had no
clue about anything so he gave up. What he wanted was really elementary, and
to become experts on this issue the employees would have to read few
paragraphs, and it would take them few minutes. This perhaps was too large of
a task for them. Well I guess they were too busy doing nothing.
Thursday was a
national holiday in Austria and this is the day of free admissions to all
museums. So I went to Vienna early morning and visited Belvedere, summer
residence of Austro-Hungarian kings, seen Crown Jewels in Hoff Burg, National
Museum of Art and Natural History Museum. Wow it was fantastic experience.
Then I went walking through the old Vienna, streets, churches, and town
squares I never visited before (I lived in Vienna for six months in 1969),
found new street markets. All thanks to new guidebook I purchased in
Bratislava recently. You can get these guidebooks in North America and I
consider them to be above all guidebooks the BEST. DORING KINDERSLEY TRAVEL
GUIDES. There is nothing better out there. I returned to Bratislava in the
evening and went for dinner with my friends to our favorite restaurant “U
Vodníka.” Everyone’s dinner was fantastic except mine as I ordered highly
recommended roasted duck with lokše, red cabbage, and dumplings. I felt my
duck was roasted few days ago and just reheated for me. This was far below the
standards one is used at this restaurant. So I will never ever order ducks
there again. On the positive note the green salad with their homemade garlic
dressing was just fantastic.
Next day I went
to Liptovská Tepilčka and booked into my favorite Pension Dolinka, where
I feel like at home and made it my base camp for many days.
Sunday I went to
Prešov and visited my friend Jaroslav Biroš Bohumile Onnasisse. Bohumile
recently returned after few years’ absence to dance again in one of the best
Eastern Slovakia’s folklore groups ŠARIŠAN. Later on continued to Údol
near Stará Lubovňa visiting family of my friend from New Jersey. There
was a religious celebration in Údol as the day of St. Dimitrij was on Friday
and St. Dimitrij is also the patron of the church. The whole village
celebrated this day on Sunday. All members of all families gathered together
and had family lunches. It was a great honor for me to be invited for lunch at
my friend’s family. Later on I went to Poprad visiting our long time friend
Nórika Gašková Č.S. who used to be a nanny in Vancouver few years ago.
I returned to Liptovská Teplička later on and still visited my friends
Dr. and Mrs. Vladimír Pohánka.
Monday morning I
went to Telgárt visiting friends and delivered pictures together with video
of the first mass of newly ordained Greek Catholic Priest Martin Mekel, to his
father the Mayor of Telgárt. I learned from him that there will be a large
celebratory Beatification mass in Prešov on November 17th at which
the humane remains of martyr Bishop Pavol Peter Gojdič, OSBM will be put
into his final resting place at the cathedral in Prešov. So I will be there.
From Telgárt I went through Brezno, Čierny Balog, Hriňová and
Korytárky to Detva. Here I visited my friend and deputy director of Detva’s
cultural center Milka Sekerešová and learned that MEGALOMANIAC GRUSKA IS
GONE FROM DETVA’S FESTIVAL FOR GOOD. Apparently he couldn’t take the
objective criticism his disastrous programs and creations were subjected to
and he walked out of the review meting. You see he didn’t get it yet that he
lost his touch with reality and that what he once had is all gone forever.
There is a sign of relief in Detva since then. As it will take years to repair
the damage he has done to DETVA’S festival and it’s reputation. However
there are still several members of what I call FMS-THE FOLKLORE MAFIA OF
SLOVAKIA involved in organizing committee of Detva’s festival. I don’t
want to mention their names at this time, but they and everybody else involved
in Slovak folklore all know very well who they are and I may publish their
names sometime in the near future. One of them used to lead one of the best
amateur folklore groups in central Slovakia and yes he was a communist and
until recently he would have taken the Christ from the cross with his bare
hands. Now he is first deputy of Slovak cultural organization and every
speech he makes, he mentions God and prays at public speeches during folklore
happenings everywhere, says blessing before meals, but all of us know that he
is just a fake and a turn coat. He and others already tried to bring back the
former director of Detva’s festival, who they discredited and tried to
destroy, but he told them to take a hike. I guess it is time for rest of THE
FOLKLORE MAFIA OF SLOVAKIA to LEAVE DETVA FESTIVAL ALONE, to leave and promise
to never return. I also learned that Milka’s program that I’ve seen and
liked very much at Východná festival and mentioned in the last issue entered
competition in Zvolen and advanced to the next round of competition.
Congratulations Milka. I also visited PhDr. Jana Kuzbelová the owner of PARTA
folk store in Detva and learned of her plans of an incredible program for next
year Detva’s festival which I am sure will be great since the MEGALOMANIAC
GRUSKA IS GONE FOR EVER.
I have noticed
many changes everywhere these first few days in Slovakia. Gas prices are about
the same as in the summer: Diesel is 30.40Sk, Seta Diesel 28.70Sk, Normal gas
30.10Sk, Super gas 30.40, and Super gas + is 32.70 per liter. You get about
47.00 Sk for 1US$. Packages are getting smaller and prices for them are
higher. Price of bread has increased and at the same time the weight was
decreased. Coca-Cola also produces soda water in Slovakia called Bon Aqua. The
bottle used to be 2 liters, now it is 1.5 liters. Decrease in the size of 25%
and decrease in price of only 10%, therefore net loss to the consumer is 15%
increase. Cases like this you can see everywhere. There is plenty of
everything in all stores. For instance I have seen some English ducks in
Kaufland store in Poprad. Huge MEGA stores that are open 24 hours are opening
in almost every major city. On average they have over 60 check out stands in
every store. The market is dominated by TESCO, CAREFOUR, BILLA, KAUFLAND, BAU
MAX and METRO stores.
Wednesday it was
so warm I was wearing just a T-shirt, but by Thursday evening it was really
cold and snowing at higher elevations.
Thursday was a
national holiday in Slovakia, All Saints Day. People ere decorating the graves
of their deceased family members for days and today it was a day to go to the
cemetery and pay respects. The cemeteries were full of people. This is also
the busiest day on all highways in Europe with increased police surveillance
and lots of accidents. I spent the next few days in Liptovská Teplička
again, visiting my friends and cooking dinners for them. I made chicken Cordon
blue, my wife Maria’s famous pork spare ribs few times, chicken on bacon and
mushrooms with apples and pork tenderloin on dried and fresh mushrooms with
bacon and cream. Sunday I visited my friend master potter Rasťo Haroník
and his mother in Vyšehradné and here I made pork spare ribs again, however
this time it was on the wooden stove and it was great. While in Bratislava I
went to the Slovak National Theater Opera to see Donizetti’s Elixir
d’amour again as I really like it. I love Opera and I can see the same
performance time and time again and I love it every time. This was a
remarkable performance. While visiting my friend and the press secretary of
the Slovak National Theater Izabela Pažítková I learned that LÚČNICA
the best Slovak amateur folk ensemble would have performance on Tuesday at the
hall in Istropolis center. I had a choice to go and see Verdi’s TOSCA or LÚČNICA.
Since TOSCA plays at the Slovak National Theater more often than LÚČNICA
performs at home, I chose to see LÚČNICA. The program was called “SONG
AND PLAY.” What a performance. I still know many dancers, musicians,
and former dancers and of course Prof. Štefan Nosál, the choreographer and
artistic director is my friend since EXPO 86 in Vancouver. Their manager Ing.
Július Jackuliak is a friend of mine as well and so is their scene
designer Academic sculptor Ján Ťapák. I arrived prior to the
performance, of course without a ticket. Got to sit in the best row right
in the middle of the theater, thanks to my connections for free. The head of
the Slovak National Council Mr. Jozef Migaš and many members of the
government were in the audience as well. The program started with celebration
under Poľana continued with sowing poppy seeds, songs from Liptov that
were sung at hay fields, beating the flax, Vallachian Hajduk, dance of
legendary Janošík’s friends, in kúdeľná izba-in the spinning room
(my favorite from Važec), music by Devils violin and Cymbal solo by Ernest Šarkózi,
Roma dance, Potters from Pozdišovce, My throat, Bottle dance, Polka Upper
Hron song and finale Holiday afternoon of upper Hron Youth.
Next day I went
to visit my friend and the former director of the Slovak National Museum in
Martin, Martin Mešša who in now working for ÚĽUV in Bratislava. ÚĽUV
is Centre for Folk art Production. We went for lunch and then I went to take
some pictures in the old town. As I was returning home, I stopped at the
telecommunication center to get a new phone card and had to make some long
distance phone calls, which are by the way less expensive from the phone booth
then from the mobile phone. At the present time there are two providers of
mobile phone signals in Slovakia. Globtel and Eurotel. Both are billing by the
second. If you are calling someone on the same system it is less expensive
then if you call someone on the other system from yours. The most expensive
call however is from any mobile phone to regular phone or the other way on
system that is provided by the Slovak Telecommunications. It is common on
European regular systems that you are charged impulse charge even on local
call, same as long distance in North America. You do have monthly fee for
having the phone access and every call you make is charged extra same as on
cell phones in North America, depending on the length of the phone call. Once
my family gently mentioned to me that if I were invisible guest they would
know that I was there as soon as they received their phone bill, which went to
astronomical heights during my visits. So now I do not use their phone at all
and use my mobile or I use the phone card and phone from the phone booths.
However there is a difference on the cell phone charges. As here in north
America we are charged for every second receiving or dialed phone calls and in
Europe or at least in Slovakia you pay only for cell phone calls you dial, not
the received ones. As I was on the phone, my friend and the president of the
Slovak Folklore Union Štefan Zima passed by. I told him I was meeting our
friend Martin Mešša after work, so we went to the Courtyard of Crafts
located at the ÚĽUV Centre at Obchodná Street 64. Štefan offered me to
have a photo exhibit that I have been thinking about for a long time “The
forgotten treasures of Slovakia.” It would be a collection of my sacral work
and little known treasures of Gothic art in Slovakia. Well I asked him where
would he host such exhibit to which he replied at Východná Festival 2002. So
I told him to forget it as I had bad experience with the organizing committee
of the Východná Festival once before and I will never ever have anything to
do with the National Cultural Centre. By the way they still owe me money for
my last exhibit. To this he replied that how about if they would give me some
space on their web pages that aren’t in existence yet. He missed the fact
that at the present time I have 349 pages on the web totaling 111.5MB of space
and get 150000 hits per month and that I hardly need his offer. I do believe
that I will have the exhibit sometime in the near future, but it will be in
some more respectable place in Bratislava. Martin Mešša was soon finished
with his work and we went for beer to SLOVAK PUB right next door. It is sad
how much they use English words in everything. Like for instance this
“PUB” should be called Slovenská krčma and the translation should be
Slovak Pub. If you listen to Slovak radio station and you don’t speak a word
of English, you may have problem understanding the talk. We had few beers and
Martin and I went to the center of the town to the Old Market and we had some
langoše and I also had a lokša with geese lard. From there ewe went to Café
Amsterdam, where I was told by one of the owners a day before that would be a
reunion of some kind, but it never materialized, so we had a beer and went
home.
Next morning I
went to Nitra. Just prior to Nitra in village called Lehota lives my friend,
fujara, whistle, and bagpipe player and maker, Drahoš Daloš. I know Drahoš
since about 1989. He taught me how to make straw Christmas ornaments. Over the
years we have been to many festivals and became personal friends. Drahoš is
an excellent folk musical instrument maker and he sells his instruments
through a Swiss company around the world. Last year I sold one of is beautiful
three piece assembling Fujaras to a friend of mine in the USA and I have
decided to sell his instruments on the web as well. So I took pictures of all
instruments he makes. I spent the day in Nitra and in evening I attended The
Fiddler on the Roof musical performance. I seen it in New York with Zero
Mostel in 1971 and in 1999, I seen it here in Nitra. You never get enough of
the beauty in Fiddler on the roof so I arranged for my tickets through their
press office on the Internet. It did work as my tickets were waiting for me in
the box office and yes they were the best tickets in the house, right in the
middle of the theatre. I stayed in Nitra overnight in the Hotel of Agro
Institute. The hotel isn’t cheap by Slovak standards. It cost about 1000
crowns per single person to have one of the “better and remodeled rooms.”
They have two elevators one new and one old. The old one makes so much noise
that it can be heard throughout the whole floor in your room. There is no
ventilation in the bathroom at all. I guess they forgot? Windows are very hard
to open in some rooms. The room however does have a TV and a fridge, no bar.
No ice machines as well. Somehow I feel that they just can’t see the details
or perhaps they don’t care if the tourists return? There are tiles and grout
missing, things do not fit, there is dirt everywhere, and nobody is checking
anybody for general neatness of the place. To us that is what counts, the
perfection and neatness and cleaning ness in everything. It is very common to
have pillowcases; bed spreads and even towels with holes in them. I feel
returning and happy guests are the name of the game in most parts of the
world, but I guess it is not the rule in Slovakia yet. For what they have and
give for the money in this hotel, they are greatly OVERPRICED.
Next morning,
Friday, I visited Zvolen, town where my family is from and I arrived in
Liptovská Teplička early afternoon. From here I went to Detva to
video and photograph the 30th anniversary Gala performance of the folklore
group DETVA. Read the story and see the pictures on following pages. I returned
to Liptovská Teplička following the performance.
Saturday, I returned
to Detva again for the second Gala performance, this time it was for invited
guests and dignitaries only. I couldn’t resist taking some more
pictures and some extra video. The party after the performance lasted till the
morning and then I went to visit my friends in Telgárt early Sunday and
continued to Liptovská Teplička. Monday afternoon I returned to
Bratislava and I went to see Verdi’s opera AIDA in the Slovak National
Theater. Next few days I stayed in Bratislava. I learned some tinker’s craft
with steel wire at ÚĽUV (story and pictures on following pages).
Wednesday I attended the opening of Bratislava’s latest Shopping mall-AU
PARK whose general director is my long time friend Ing. Igor Dula. This
shopping center is located in Petržalka just across the river Danube by the
New Bridge. The mall is made to western standards and it has three floors, 190
retail stores, 13 restaurants, 13 coffee shops, children’s play corner,
fitness center, multi projection theater with 12 cinemas and 2350 seats that
will open in the first quarter of 2002 as will the 18 lane Brunswick bowling
center. There were about 5000 guests at the opening; champagne was floating
everywhere, as was the red and white wine from my favorite Eastern Slovakia
vine-growing region TIBAVA. There was plenty of food and it was excellent as
well.
Next morning I
went to Liptovská Teplička again, as I needed to be closer to Prešov.
The weather was nice, but it was getting really cold and windy. Friday morning
I started to make an ancestral village video in Hranovnica near by and
later on I continued to Prešov to the Byzantine rite Greek Catholic
Bishop’s office to get permission to film and photograph the second
Beatification mass and transfer of the human remains of the Martyr Bishop of
Prešov, Pavol Peter Gojdič next day on Saturday. I got written
permission to enter on the main floor and to go anywhere. On the way back from
Prešov I finished the video in Hranovnica. My fingers almost froze off during
the filming of the cemetery. It was unbelievable windy and really cold, but
still sunny.
Early morning on
November 17, I went to Prešov and picked up my video assistant for the day
Jaroslav Bohumile Onasisse Biroš and we went to the Sport’s Hall to attend
the Second Beatification mass and moving the mortal remains of Bishop Pavol
Peter Gojdič into the cathedral’s crypt. My pass worked and we were
allowed to park really close, however there were people everywhere and as soon
as we entered the hall through the back door we realized that perhaps we
should have come earlier as the place was already packed with people and
dignitaries from all over Slovakia, Europe and even North America. To mention
just few, Mrs. Steven Roman from Canada, Premier Mikuláš Dzurinda, former
president Michal Kováč, leaders of political parties, members of
parliament, as on this day, this was the place to be and be seen. It is very
sad that most of the leaders of the political parties and members or
parliament in Slovakia are former communists and atheists and suddenly they
all turned religious. Read about the mass on following pages.
After the mass
we went to Tesco hypermarket in Prešov, bought some supplies for lunch and
had a really good lunch at Jaroslav’s place with his girlfriend Helenka.
Later on I was to go to Brezno and photograph and videotape the new
festival of heligónka players called Podstavenkova Heligónka. There simply
wasn’t enough time for me to make it to Brezno on time, but I have a story
about the festival on following pages from our correspondent Stela Ihring and
pictures by my long time friend and photographer Peter Berčík. So later
on in the evening I returned to Liptovská Teplička. Sunday I went
to Nitra and Vyšehradné visiting my friend Jaroslav Haroník again. This
time I just made snack of imitation crab fingers with mayonnaise and
mustard and we had some champagne with it. Tuesday I visited my friend
Tibor Kobliček and picked up GAJDY-Slovak BAGPIPES for a client of
mine. Tibor makes bagpipes, fujara’s, nineras, whistles, violins, and other
folk musical instruments.
You can read
about him at: http://www.slovakheritage.org/Folkartists/koblicek.htm
and the musical instruments
are at: http://www.slovakheritage.org/Shopping/Musicinstr/musicinstr.htm
He makes gajdy
from scratch, he even kills his own goats and skins them and prepares the
leather for gajdy bag, gets and dries the cherry wood, makes his own brass
zinc or horn decorations. He makes them all by himself. They really sound
great. He gave me instructions during which I was taping it on the video, so
my client wouldn’t have a hard time learning to play. It all went fine and
later on the gajdy arrived safely in Canada and now they are in USA.
After I picked
the bagpipes I went to Bratislava. While in Liptovská Teplička I learned
from my friends that one of the members of folklore group Tepličan,
Stanka Bulavová has just been diagnosed with leukemia and is in hospital in
Bratislava. She is 17 years old and very nice girl always making jokes and
very pleasant. She dances and sings beautifully. She has been a member of
Tepličan for a long time. The hospital she was staying and where they
were making her tests is very well known to me as I did donated my blood to
the Slovak Red Cross here on several occasions over the years. I went to the
market and got some bananas, as that is the fruit she was allowed to have and
went to the hospital. The staff was very pleasant and helpful in finding her
for me and even though there were no visiting hours at the present time, they
did allow me to see her. She was very surprised and happy to see me, as she
didn’t know that I was in Slovakia. Stanka has lost a lot of weight, they
cut her hair, but she didn’t loose her high spirits and hope.
In the evening I
went to Opera again and this time I seen my first opera written in 1791 by
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, The Magic Flute. Mozart had a concert in Bratislava
in 1762 when he was 6 years old in today’s Austrian embassy located in the
old part of the town.
Next day I went
to Liptovská Teplička again as I was invited by my friends Dr. And
Mrs. Vladimir Pohánka to attend the opera recital by one of the best
Slovakia’s opera singers, Matrin Babiak in one of the better four stars
hotels, Hubert, under the High Tatra Mountains in village called Gerlachov. I
have never been so close to a singing opera star as we sat in the first row of
conference room that was filled to the last seat. Following the performance we
went for dinner in their gourmet restaurant where they had “Husacie Hody”
a “Geese feast.” Of course we all had geese and it was great. It has been
snowing on and off for the whole day and of course it was still snowing after
the dinner and so we went really slowly to Liptovská Teplička.
Friday it was
the first gala 45th anniversary performance of folklore group JÁNOŠÍK in
Svit. I left Liptovská Teplička really early allowing myself plenty of
time to get there. As I was driving towards Šuňava I suddenly realized
after all these years, how steep was the road through the forest. It must have
been due to the snow on the road that it seemed much steeper then ever before.
It was very dangerous as it was still snowing and wind was blowing strong as
well. I was greeted by the director of the folklore group, Slavomír Bednarčík
who was really happy to see me. I went to greet my friends the members of the
folklore group in their dressing rooms and it was really nice to see them on
this big day, their 45th anniversary. Read about the gala program on the
following pages. Soon after the performance I left in snowstorm and wet to
Liptovská Teplička. Saturday they had second gala performance followed
with dinner and dance party in near by restaurant. I went to Poprad first as I
was to do some small shopping for my friends; it was sunny as I walked into
KAUFLAND super market. Well the weather changed so fast and it was snowing
heavily by the time I got out of the store and the highway was covered with
snow and snowdrifts. I got to Svit on time, changed to my suit in their
changing room so I look decent for this memorable occasion. This performance
was for invited guests only, mostly former members of the folklore group JÁNOŠÍK.
Slavo was worried before performance as he said that yesterday’s performance
was for public and the audience tonight may be far more critical. Everything
went fine and great and there were long lasting ovations after every number
throughout the evening. Dinner reception and dance party and followed the
performance and continued till the early hours of the morning. The weather was
really bad; it was freezing and snowing most of the evening. The roads were
icy. Since I had to get to Liptovská Teplička that night I didn’t stay
too long, but I really enjoyed it all.
Sunday
I went to Bratislava. Recently I started to use a different road to go to and
from Liptovská Teplička. I go through Nitra as the freeway goes there
now and from Nitra I go to Zvolen, Banská Bystrica, Brezno and I cut across
the mountains through Čertovica and go to Hybe, around Východná, Važec
to Štrba and from there to Šuňava and Liptovská Teplička. If I am
early, like before 4PM when they close the gate, I take short cut through Kraľová
Lehota and the man made dam Čierny Váh and then go on paved logging road
that is in fairly good shape, to Liptovská Teplička. That saves me time
and 14 kilometers. I go back the same way if I can. However this wasn’t the
case today as it was cold and windy and snowdrifts were forming everywhere.
The road was icy and I couldn’t see the road at times at all. Lucky there
were not too many cars on the road. I decided to play it safe and not to try
my luck through the mountains and I went the upper route through Liptovský Hrádok,
Liptovský Mikuláš to Ružomberok. This is all on freeway and pretty well
leveled. Then from Ružomebrok to Martin, Žilina, Bytča and Považská
Bystrica. From Považská Bystrica there is a freeway all the way to
Bratislava and it goes by Trenčín, Nové Mesto nad Váhom, Piešťany
and Trnava. I was extra careful and the trip took me six hours. Usually
it takes little bit over 3 hours. I arrived in Bratislava safe and sound,
next morning packed and repacked and as usual I left large quantity of
books behind as I was over my allowable weight of luggage. Later on in
the evening I drove to Frankfurt where I arrived early morning.
There were no problems in getting a seat right away, as the flight
wasn’t full at all. I arrived in Calgary nine hours later, boarded
another plane, and arrived on time in Vancouver and thus my Journey to
Slovakia Winter 2001 has come to a happy end.
Vladimir
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BACK TO TRAVEL
Published in the
Slovak Heritage Live newsletter Volume 9, No. 4, Winter 2001
Copyright © Vladimir Linder 2001
3804 Yale
Street, Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada V5C 1P6
The above article may not be copied,
reproduced, republished, or redistributed by any means including electronic,
without the express written permission of Vladimir
Linder. All rights
reserved.
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